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DA SIENA A MONTALCINO
Of Etruscan and Roman origins, Asciano preserves its
medieval architecture, surrounded by a boundary wall from the 14th
century.
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The
urban interventions during the fascism and after WWII did not regard
the historical centre, which preserves its ancient charm. The landscape
which you pass to get to Asciano is marvellous. The rolling clay hills
are plotted with sunflowers in the summer and pastures in the winter.
In the centre of the town you have to visit the Collegiata di Sant'Agata,
a Romanesque church from the 12th century in travertine with the bell-tower
from the following century. Next to the Collegiata you find the Museo
di Arte Sacra, which features two statues by Francesco Valdambrino
and works by painters of the Sienese school from the 14th and 15th
century. Also see the Museo Civico Archeologico where the findings
from between the 5th century a.C. and the 1st d.C from the surroundings
of Asciano are exposed. In the Museo Cassioli you find works by the
Asciano painter Amos Cassioli and his son Giuseppe.
Thanks to the central position, Asciano offers the visitor
the chance to organise many excursions in the neighbourhood. To begin
with we have Rapolano Terme, a thermal resort which was already
known in the Middle Ages for its sulphurous springs. But Rapolane
Terme also features an important historical and artistic heritage.
Here you find the Centro Civico per l'arte contemporanea, with a permanent
exhibition and a big library where you find both foreign and Italian
authors. Those who prefer ancient art can visit the churches della
Fraternità, di Santa Maria Assunta and di San Bartolomeo. The
ruins of the wall from the 14th century are also suggestive, with
the Porta Tintori and the Romanesque Pieve di San Vittore still intact.
In the surroundings of Rapolano, you have the spas San Giovanni Battista
and Antica Querciolaia, which are open from April to October.
The small village Serre di Rapolano is famous for the
travertine caves and preserves a charming medieval historical centre
with the Gothic Palazzo di Giustizia (Courthouse)and the Pieve di
San Lorenzo. Also take a look at the remains of the castle and the
"grancia", a typical Sienese farm, which once were the grain
storehouse for the Sienese Spedale di Santa Maria della Scala. Today
it features a centre and a museum dedicated to the activities of the
old "grancie". Along the road which runs from Asciano to
San Giovanni d'Asso you have to stop at the marvellous Benedictine
abbey Monte Oliveto Maggiore, raised on an inexpugnable top
surrounded by cypresses. Founded in 1313 by Saint Bernardo, the abbey
is surrounded by a secular park, embellished with a fish-pond from
the 16th century. The heart of the complex is the main cloister, decorated
with Renaissance frescoes which illustrate the story of St. Benedict.
36 scenes painted between 1495 and 1505 by Luca Signorelli a by Il
Sodoma, who also painted one of his masterpieces here, Jesus with
the Cross. The interior dates back to the 15th century, with Baroque
decorations from the 17th century. The middle cloister can be accessed
from the refectory and the library, where you find marvellous choral
miniatures from the 14th and the 15th century. The library hosts more
than 40.000 volumes, pamphlets, incunabulo, preserved by the monks
with care, who also carry out the restoration of books in the work-shop.
From Asciano, passing Chiusure, you reach San Giovanni
d'Asso. Chiusure is worth a visit due to the marvellous castle built
in the 13th century by the Sienese on the top of a hill, from where
you have a great view over Le Crete.
San Giovanni d'Asso is the right place for gourmets of the
white truffle from Le Crete. Even the one who is not so fond of the
strong truffle flavour should stop here as it is a charming agricultural
town in the middle of the scenery of Le Crete. The historical centre
preserves its medieval character, and is dominated by the elegant
castle which belonged to the Counts of Scialenga in the 12th century
and then became a centre of the Spedale della Scala in Siena. A truffle
market is held every year in November in the suggestive premises of
the castle. You can always visit the Chiesa di San Giovanni Battista,
from the 14th century, and the Chiesa di San Pietro in Villore, a
church from the 11th century surrounded by cypresses.
To the south of the Abbazia di Monte Oliveto Maggiore you find
Buonconvento, an ancient fortified village which dominates the
confluence of the rivers Arbia and Ombrone. Located along the road
Via Francigena, Buonconvento has preserved its medieval centre and
the powerful red-brick boundary wall which was built by the Sienese
between 1371 and 1381. The Porta Senese is the entrance to the heart
of the village, where you can visit the Museo d'Arte Sacra della Val
d'Arbia, housed in the local library. Here you find furnishing, gold-works,
sculptures and works by painters of the Sienese and Florentine schools
from the 14th to the 17th century. The more modern buildings of Buonconvento
feature flower decorations on the façades, made in the beginning
of the 20th century in Liberty style. Gourmets can try the excellent
truffle, sausages, prosciutto, honey and mortadella.
Montalcino is famous all over the world thanks to the excellent
wines which are as marvellous as the landscape. The town of Brunello
is located on a hill covered by olive trees and vineyards, from where
it dominates the valleys dell'Asso, dell'Ombrone and dell'Arbia. Populated
already during the Etruscan and Roman periods, Montalcino was governed
by the Abbazia di Sant'Antimo until it became a self-governed "comune".
After the battle of Monatperti in 1260 it was dominated by Siena which
built the Rocca in 1361, famous for being the Sienese settlement which
resisted longest against the Florentines. Montalcino, with the central
Piazza del Popolo, is still surrounded by the boundary wall. Visit
the Palazzo dei Priori with its tower, which is a marvellous example
of Sienese architecture from the 14th century and the town hall today.
At the main square you find the Loggia from the 14th century, while
you have to climb the hill to be able to admire the Rocca, an excellent
example of medieval military architecture with a pentagonal plant.
In the Museo Civico e Diocesano you find many precious works by painter
of the Sienese school, which will soon be moved to the Chiesa di Sant'Agostino
from the 14th century. Apart from a nice painted Cross from the 12th
century from Sant'Antimo, the church also features the so-called Stendardo
di Siena, by Giovanni di Lorenzo, attributed to Il Sodoma for a long
time. The Duomo of Montalcino is a great example of Neo-classic architecture,
built in the 19th century on the site of the Pieve di San Salvatore.
Montalcino, the hometown for excellent wines known in the whole world,
features 3 Docg wines and 5 Doc wines. The famous Brunello, which
ages 6 years, out of which 2 years in oak barrels, the Chianti dei
Colli Senesi and the Vinsanto del Chianti features the mark Denomination
of Controlled and Guaranteed Origin. The Chianti dell'Etruria Centrale,
the Moscatello di Montalcino, the Rosso di Montalcino, th eBianco
di Sant'Antimo and the Orcia Rosso feature the Doc mark. Anyone who
visits Montalcino can not miss a succulent roast accompanied by a
lots of Brunello wine (walk to the restaurant so you do not have to
drive back home!), but it is worth to forget the diets in order to
be able to taste the "cavallucci" biscuits, the cold cuts,
the honey and the panforte which are sold in the shops in the centre.
The medieval atmosphere the sweet landscape of the vineyards, the
breathtaking views, the wines, go hand in hand with a high-class tourist
offer and farm holidays, which promise a relaxing stay, great food,
visits to the wine-cellars and historical and artistic sites.
Do not miss a visit to the marvellous Abbazia di Sant'Antimo,
founded, according to the legend, in 781 by Charlemagne. Located surrounded
by olive trees and already flourishing in the 12th century, the Abbey
was embellished with a church built by the Benedictine monks in 1118.
The Romanesque façade with French and Longobard influences,
features a decorated portal and is built in travertine and onyx, which
give brightness to the portal. Inside you find several masterpieces
of holy art, among which we can mention "Daniele nella fossa
dei leoni" attributed to the Maestro di Cabestany, and a wooden
polychrome crucifix from the 12th century. There is not much left
of the buildings of the ancient monastery. But the church is preserved,
completed and restructured in the beginning of the 20th century. Today
it houses the French St. Augustine monks who guarantee the religious
functions. Not far from Sant'Antino you should visit Castelnuovo
dell'Abate, which is a small medieval village. Visit the Palazzo
Vescovile, built in the 15th century, and the Palazzo Bellanti, a
Late Renaissance building. The parish church, restructured in 1597,
still features its original Romanesque structure.
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